The story of Heerlen, part 2: The Landsfort Herle

The Middle Ages take us back to the long period from 500 to 1500 AD. Throughout Europe, the influence of the Roman Empire slowly ebbs away. South Limburg turns into a patchwork of villages and fortresses, which have to defend themselves well. It is the time of robbers and knights. In this turbulent period, the Landsfort Herle is built on the site of the former Coriovallum.

The Landsfort Herle

After the Romans left, people continued to live in and around Coriovallum. The soil is very fertile. Spring fields and streams provide clean drinking water. And its location on a hill is also favorable. The inhabitants build a small castle, because not only do people want to live there, some even want to conquer that small settlement. 

A small community

The Herle of the Middle Ages is a small settlement of less than 350 square meters - you can find the original castle in the present time around St. Pancratius Church. It is a few farms within an earthen wall. In order to defend themselves from robbers and hostile armies, the inhabitants at some point needed the protection of a fortress. Presumably, the small settlement was already surrounded by a wooden palisade in the early Middle Ages. Later this was replaced by "the stercke veste," a stone rampart built in the twelfth century.

At some point, the earliest Herle could not help but burst at the seams and a new shell of farms was built outside the city walls. All over Europe during this period you see small fortified towns emerging in this way. It will have been no different here. The brooding families live in small houses made of wood, loam and straw - only after 1500 did people start building stone houses. The whole family often lives together in one room. Cooking is done inside on an open fire. Parents and children sleep together, often in one bed. They usually keep a lot of animals; a pig, cow, goat, horse, some chickens, a dog and a cat. And the whole family, old and young, works the land from sunrise to sunset. Everyone rolls up their sleeves to support the family. The rules are clear: part of the harvest is for the family, the other part is for the Lord who protects them. What goes around comes around in the feudal system of the Middle Ages. 

Strong fortress

The first Lord of Heerlen was Bishop Udo of Toul (1004-1069). He belonged to the Von Ahr-Hochstaden house that played an important role in fortifying Herle. They turned the small settlement into a "castrum" in the 12th century by building (or having built) around the settlement a solid stone wall about 5 meters high and 2 meters wide. In the wall they build a defense tower from which they can protect the country fortress; they call it 'Bickerstein'. We know the tower under the name Schelmentoren. On the outside of the wall another moat is dug. Thus came into being the Landsfort Herle. 

All those structures are there for a reason. Many wars were fought in the region during the Middle Ages. Danger lurked constantly. This is also reflected in the St. Pancratius Church. The Heerlen church was built with a fortified church tower. If things get really bad outside, the residents of the Landsfort can retreat to the church. It is safe behind those sturdy walls. Heerlen's fortified church tower is unique far and wide. Only in France and Baden-Württemberg in Germany do you find comparable church castles.

Herila, Herle, Heerle

The Landsfort Herle first appears in archives in 1225. Where the name comes from? Possibly Herle is a derivation of the Frankish name Herila, which means something like "dry elevation. Life is not easy in the Middle Ages. But living high and dry above those two streams, which keep the farmlands in and around Herle fertile, is good. The Middle Ages are known as "dark ages. That turns out to be unfair. On the contrary, during this period people wear as many colors as possible. They also decorated their houses and churches with flowers and colorful paintings. During the Middle Ages, it is hard work but life is also celebrated. Thus, even then, Lent - a time without carnevale, or meat - is ushered in with what is now called Carnival.

What's on the medieval menu? 

In addition to grain, medieval farmers grow legumes. The livestock mainly provided dairy from which cheeses were also made. Less meat is eaten than today, because it requires the slaughter of an expensive animal and it is also difficult to preserve meat for a long time. Medieval food is hearty and nutritious. It has to be, because people are working all day. That calls for a good meal. Poor people eat brown bread, for example - white bread is for the rich - cheese, legumes and bacon. Or salmon, if they live near a river.

And we call him or her...

In medieval times, most people had average Dutch names such as Jan, Coen, Herman, Marie, Elizabeth, Willem or Anna. Or variants of these, such as Arnoldus, Wilhelm and Gerardus. Names have no standard spelling. There are documents where one person is called Elizabeth, Lijsbet, Elisabet, Elysabet and Lysbet. 

That looks different!

Medieval cattle look very different from what we are used to. Medieval pigs look more like a wild boar and that is how they behave, they are aggressive. If they were kept, it was often on the outskirts of the village, so that escaped pigs could not terrorize the place. In Heerlen, we know that pigs were kept. Horses and cows at that time are mostly much smaller: the cow has a shoulder height of 1.18 m and the horse looks more like a pony. 

Hoensbroek Castle

A few kilometers from the army town of Herle stands a motte castle in Hoensbroek; the predecessor of Kasteel Hoensbroek. The name "Hoensbroek" is an amalgamation of the family Hoen and the word "broek" or "broich," meaning swamp. The oldest part of the castle dates back to about 1375. The noble family used the castle as their main base of operations for nearly six centuries.